We left Port Charles Harbor Marina early this morning southbound on the Mississippi. The weather was a cool 60 degrees with low humidity and lots of sunshine. We thought today would be an excellent travel day on the busy Mississippi because there would be less traffic on Sunday. We were wrong. We incurred lots of barge traffic in both directions, some tugs had tows five barges long and three barges wide. It's amazing how these captains maneuver the big barges through the river. The tug captains have been very congenial when we call on the radio which is helpful.
We locked through the Mel Price Lock without a hitch -- no other traffic either way. We continued south to the Mississippi/Missouri River Junction and noticed an increase in the current and a little turbulence. Only a few miles further, all traffic entered the Chain of Rocks Canal which is very narrow and often we had to pull off to the side to allow the barges to pass safely. We had about a 45 minute wait to go through the Chain of Rocks Lock. The locks here on the Mississippi have two chambers: one for commercial tugs and barges and the other for commercial tugs and barges as well as pleasure craft. Both chambers of the Chain of Rocks Lock were busy when we arrived, causing a delay.
We were about a mile north of St. Louis when the U.S. Coast Guard gave a securite' announcement: The river was now closed between mile marker 180 and 175 because a woman had fallen into the water and a search and rescue operation was underway. We had nowhere to tie up to wait. However, a moored tug and tow were off to the side of the river and offered us and two other boats to tie up onto their barge. That was a Godsend. We were barely tied up when the Coast Guard announced that the river was now open, so apparently the woman in the water was rescued. We continued south past downtown St. Louis and the Gateway Arch which look beautiful from the water.
As we traveled today we were struck with the exposed banks along the river -- in some places the receded water looked to be about 12' in this mainly industrial section.
We arrived at Hoppie's Marina in Kimmswick, MO around 3:30. Hoppie's is a Mom and Pop operation that has been in existence for 78 years and it must be experienced to be appreciated. It is definitely a slice of Americana. Hoppie's is known for the generosity and hospitality of the Hopkins Family. It is also famous for Fern, Hoppie Hopkins' wife, who gives briefings to all boaters about what to expect on the river from Kimmswick, MO to Mobile, AL. She has up-to-date information concerning water levels in the rivers, anchorages that are now silted in because of low water and which marinas are able to handle trawlers in the drought condition. She also gives advice about fueling and provisioning.
After the briefing, Fern invited everyone to a potuck dinner -- she served pork steaks, ribs, various rice and salad dishes and everyone brought appetizers or desserts. Listening to "oldies" in the background it was fun to get to know everyone there. What lovely people the Hopkins' family are. The marina consists of one long dock with electricity that can accommodate only about 8 boats. So reservations as a must.
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